I was surprised noticing this discussion missing. Well, now here I am to do this
So, the stuff I write in red is all pasted. The rest is on my knowledge, not much though

So, lets start with the main element of the home theatre- The Display.
There are a bunch of displays- LCD, Plasma, Rear-Projection, OLEDs.
Heres a bit on the size guide..



No manufacturer makes a rear-projection HDTV smaller than 46 inches. The real benefit of rear-projection technology is that it offers great picture quality in large screen sizes at a cost lower than comparably sized flat-panel models.

If your choice for a screen size is 60 inches or bigger, you want a rear-projection HDTV. There are very few flat-panel models available in these sizes, and the ones that are will cost you. At larger screen sizes, resolution becomes more important as well, and a 720p resolution set at 60 inches or larger would not be recommended.


Regarding the space benefits of flat-panel HDTVs at larger screen sizes, consider the following. If you have space in your room for an HDTV 60 inches or larger, you have space for the depth of the rear-projection HDTV. Mounting a 60-inch plasma on the wall is possible but requires a really heavy-duty mount, and may require additional framing support in your wall to hang safely. If you're going to leave your 60-inch plasma on a stand, note that the depth of the stand footprint required for stability has just matched the depth of the rear-projection model.
N now- The big thing- LCD v/s Plasmas- The arguments by each side tend to get more technical n all. But i feel, the

[b]Power Consumption, Price, Black Correctors and the highest resolution are the factors that set 'em apart.
I guess all people know about the power consumption part- LCDs use lower power compared to the Plasmas. Darker areas are where the LCDs lose out. I am leaving this here as I dont wanna make this section boring. Innovative LCD brands like Sony, Samsung n all are coming up with new and better techniques to get the LCD Contast Ratios competitive with the Plasmas. Despite this effort, the Plasmas have an edge on contrast ratios, though its now slim!
Also, the Plasmas support a resolution not more than 720p. [Correct me if I am wrong]
Also, Plasmas don't tend to give out blurred images while watching high speed action sequences. Well, to correct this, LCDs now come with something called Motionflow. The Sony solution creates and adds extra frames based on the originals, causing the eye to perceive motion as far smoother and more realistic than in the unenhanced source. I saw a Sony 240Hz Motion flow model yesterday at Chroma and could really see the difference between a normal one and this beast!

And I dont know if I am correct at this. I read it somewhere. The picture quality on a 720p display and a 1080p one is almost the same in display sizes smaller than 40 inches. So if you are lukin out 4 a medium sized display, the 720p one would be cost-effective. And i don't think displays >40 inches with a 720p resolution are any more available.

So, even though the LCDs are a bit costly, compared to Plasmas, it benefits to buy a LCD in the long run for better Power Saving, Better Resolution and an improving contrast ratio.

I'l cum up with the Audio section soon

*mouth hannging open in astonishment*

Duude...thats a hella lotta info. +1 for the sheer amount of relevant stuff.

On the topic of TV Screens, I'd wanna ask, whats the difference between LED or OLED screens and LCD? I mean, it's the same principle right? But the prices for OLED are vastly higher.

Tkz a ton!.. I wanna buy a home theatre so desparately! Its all the research of a month that helped me post this!.. The Audio section is cumin up. I'm just a bit tired for 2day

Ok... So for ur question.-
LCDs have poor refresh rates compared to OLEDs. They are improving on that and you can compare the OLEDs to Plasmas for this. but this helps only if u gotta watch a lot of fast action scenes.
Viewing Angle- OLEDs have a wider viewing angle compared to the LCDs. But in any case, you wont be running around ur room watchin sumthin So if ur position is fixed [In front of ur panel], i think LCDs would be more cost effective. I guess OLEDs should be good for malls n other advertising places.
Also, the lifespan of the OLEDs is shorter compared to 60k hrs of the LCD.
Black Levels- Again, similar to Plasmas, OLEDs win on this. N yeah. The LCD manufacturers are improving on this.
Power Consumtion- This is what makes OLEDs more eco-friendly. It uses lesser power compared to even LCDs!
Sizes- For now it is not reliable to manufacture OLED screens of large sizes, but this will change in a few years and the availability in sizes comparable with current plasma and LC displays is expected.

There aren't more OLEDs out now. So its really difficult to picturize the scene now.
I read about some burn-in problem with the OLEDs like Plasmas. They aren't sure about it as its negligible and again, there aren't more models up now

So it'l take some time for 'em to bring up reliable and larger OLEDs. And about the price, lets wait n watch

yeah... the contrast ratio will be where the LCDs will lose out to CRTs. But then i'm uncertain of the resolution. Accordin to my observations, the resolution of LCDs is better compared to CRTs. So if you aren't plannin to go in 4 a blu-ray disc player or HD stuff or maybe not lukin out 4 a bigger display, i feel you should stick to your CRT.

Changing positions- It dependz on how much you change ur position. Like, if its a bit, I dont think you'l notice the difference. []

yeah. CRTs are better than LCDs. But if you wanna save a lotta space, LCDs are better u know.

haha... You won't :O
Awwite... I can't say nythin abt that!

Ohh yea! I'l buy 1.. But b4 that, i'l have to renovate and re-structure the living room! Or maybe set it up in my room!

Audio

Speakers
Good speakers are the key to getting the best possible audio experience from your sound system. You can put together the best CD or DVD player on the market and the highest-rated A/V receiver, but if you don't have the right speakers, your audio or home theater setup won't be worth much when it comes to actual sound. Your speakers provide the critical link between all the complicated things your audio system's internal components are doing, and physical world where you actually hear the sound being played. SO choosing the right speaker for the job is important.

SizE:
People have this misconception about the size-

Bigger isn't better!
Bigger speakers don't necessarily sound louder n most importantly better. Even a 3 way or 3 driver speaker won't be as good as a 2 way one. And also, a 12 inch sub-woofer doesn't always deliver pure bass.

Frequency Response -- You might read a frequency response specification like "30Hz - 22kHz," but unless it also tells you the variance within however many decibels (+/- 3dB, for example), you're not getting the whole picture. This hypothetical speaker may reproduce sounds as low as 30Hz, but that tone could be 20 decibels below "flat" response. This means that the speaker will vibrate at 30Hz, but does it so softly that you can't hear the sound. Additionally, a speaker's measurement method can affect the frequency response statistic. Was it measured in a normal room or in a reflectionless echo-free (or "anechoic") chamber? Where was the microphone placed to measure the response? A frequency response measurement by itself can give you the wrong impression of what a particular speaker can do. Look for a critical review, frequency response graph or a decibel variance specification. Any of these will highlight possible weaknesses in a speaker's stated frequency response value.

Wattage:
It's the amount of power a particular speaker can take from the amplifier that is powering it. There are two types of wattage when it comes to speakers: "RMS" and "Peak Power." RMS is the amount of power that a speaker can constantly use to produce sound without incurring damage over long periods of time; because of this it is also called "continuous power." Peak Power is the amount of power the speaker can take for very brief explosive passages of sound or music. It behaves a bit like a surge protector, and will always be a larger value than the amount you can constantly drive the speaker with. Some manufacturers will only list the Peak Power values of their products, making them appear more robust than they really are. While technically accurate, you'll find that the RMS wattage is actually the true reflection of the speaker's capability.
So go by the RMS wattage stated.
Also, while buying an amplifier, its better to buy one with more power handling capacity than the speakers.
I'l be writing about this in the amplifier section.

If you're just starting out, a HTib [Home Theatre in Box] solution would be great. They typically combine a Dolby 5.1 or 7.1 surround speaker set with a A/V receiver, having a built-in DVD player. Its better cuz it brings down the guesswork in picking up the right combination of speakers as they pre-match the speakers to sound better.
If you've been bitten by the Home audio bug lyk me , then go for the mid or high-end speakers to get yourself to the next level wrt the audio, that is. Also, choosing a high-end speaker means getting a better build quality. That means the punches delivered by the subwoofer will get tighter and the mids would get smoother. Also, they have superior looking cabinets or enclosures for those high-end ones. So that adds a WOW factor to your setup!


I'l come up with the amplifier section soon. Any quests are welcomed

how do i delte this post?!.. i mean...just this reply

can sum admin do this plz?

You can be sure that if no one else is reading this, I SURE AM!

akshay_1991 wrote:Is ny1 even readin this topic!?...

I'l delete this reply in a day..........

Check your reps. I've given +2 myself. We're kinda stunned at the huge pile of info, actually.

Arr0wHeaD wrote:Check your reps. I've given +2 myself. We're kinda stunned at the huge pile of info, actually.

awwite... I'l conitnue with it then...

And every1!.. Amplifier section sumin up soon

what if its assembled

whats assembled?

the hometheater

Even when they build u a custom 1, look out for the specs. Or u can even specify the frequency response, wattage and all to them.

N yea. I'm really struggling to get my schedule in track. Thats the reason why i haven't come up with the Amp section.